| Fishing Guide / Author |
Fishing Reports for Local Area - Location |
    
PRANAB (Seaexplorer)
New member
Username: Seaexplorer
Post Number: 180
Registered: 2-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 11:28 pm: | |
BY THE WAY CHUA KIT IS GOING OFF TO HIS HOME COUNTRY ON 11 OF THIS MONTH . SO I WANT TO GIVE HIM A SEE OFF DINNER . HMMM IT WOULD BE ONLY CHINESE WILL U LIKE TO JOIN , THEN PLS TRY TO GIVE ME A SHORT CALL AND LET ME KNOW . BUT IF U DONT DO THAT THEN U STAND THE CHANCE OF TASTING CHINESE AND MALAYSIAN DELICIES .
BY THE WAY WHEN U AND KIT COME PLS DOTN FORGET THAT MY NEW ROD LYING AT YOUR HOUSE WHICH U TWO GUYS WILL GIFT TO ME INFRONT OF MY WIFE. VERY VERY IMPORTANT WITHOUT THE ROD ENTRANCE IS NOT ALLOWED
REGARDS |
PRANAB (Seaexplorer)
New member
Username: Seaexplorer
Post Number: 179
Registered: 2-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 11:25 pm: | |
YOU GUYS MUST BE THINKING WHT THIS PRANAB AND KIT TALKS ON A DAY TO BASIS . GUYS WE ARE GONE CASE SEARCHING PERFECTION IN FISHING . I WONT BORE U GUYS WITH WHAT WE TALK FOR HOURS AND HOURS WHEN CHUA PREPARES HIS FISH SOUP FROM MAKAN TIMES WITH OUR FISHING FORK LORE .. HERE ISSOME OF THE INTERCEPTS
Angling Writer and Technical Consultant
Casting | Tackle | Tuning
Casting
I recently bought a Penn Extreme2 (fixed spool). Unfortunately it fell onto a quayside during a force 7. As a result, the tip ring needs replacing and 2 intermediate rings are cracked. I have tried tackle shops here in Ireland but they only seem do to small diameter rings that don't match the Penn ones (i.e. high stand off). Can you recommend more rugged rings and a possible source? (preferably in Ireland because of the crippling exchange rate!) I'm pleased with the rod itself as it has excellent bite detection and plenty of power for my (rather naff) style.
Mark you need the Fuji BSVOG intermediates and a BPOT tip. These rings are a compromise between performance and durability. If you use the heavier Fuji BNHG you will have to replace them all and they will reduce the performance and make the rod tend to wallow. Strongly suggest you obtain the correct rings mail order from someone like Gerrys or Veals Mail order.
I have just bought a Abu Suveran Sport. It seems a superb Rod but I know very little about It, i.e. potential casting distance, suitability for rough ground/rocks etc. I can't find a reveiw of this rod anywhere
Abu have an annoying habit of changing the name of their rods for the next model year. Same rod new name. The original beach power lasted a couple of years then became the Ambassaduer Elite, same as the reel - most confusing. Now they have the Suveran reel it looks like they are renaming the rods. I have yet to locate an Abu catalogue, as soon as I do I will get back to you. Alan Yates did have an Abu rod to review just before Christmas, not sure which one it was but the top 8in 'fell off' after one cast,. Will check it out
Have you cast a Conoflex Cobra & Cod 5 before? What difference are there? How do you rate this 2 rod?
The Cod five is an old and established if basic fast taper rod. It was a one piece Cod 5 tip and alloy butt that I made my first 200 yards cast so of the two I would have to say I preferred it. Cant say I ever much liked the Cobra, too soft in the tip. Okay for short range work where you need bite detection with no tide.
I am a mate of Garry Setchell and cast with him a lot,O.T.G. Im hitting 250yds+ an use fixed spool reel down.any chance of a penn groundcast blank to build up? and were from? also am fishing for E.F.S.A. at Talacre in home inters, any tips on rigs an tactics? Please try an help with rod as I would love to get passed Garrys record an I think I am at the limit of my supercast.
250 OTG with a fixed-spool is a hell of a cast! Blanks are not available at present, will look into getting one. Sorry, no idea on Talacre, but good luck.
I am an experienced angler but up until now have been limited in my budget. I now have 200 for a rod and multiplier reel. I am not a great caster (yet) but I want to purchase a rod that will be easy to compress and have the extra power as my ability improves.
What sort of ground are you likely to fish most, what sort of distance are you getting now and are you ultimately looking for? Are you tall, strong, light, short?
I would like to fish with my PPT Sidewinder in the reel up position but it put's the reel to close to the 1st ring. What can I us as an extention? I would like 12 more inches in length to the butt.
DO NOT use an extension with the Sidewinder. The rod will be okay where it is with a high reel. Not ideal, but close enough not to pose any problems.
At the moment I would class myself as an out and out heavy ground fisherman, with the rods to match. I am looking to fish open/mixed ground venues therefore my casting technique needs to be vastly improved. Is it practical to learn with the stiffer rods that I have ( eg TZ500 ) or should I try and learn the basics on a softer style rod - if the latter is true is there a rod that you would recommend ?
You would certainly learn quickly with the TZ500! Yes, it would be a more pain free learning curve with a less powerful rod, but if this is what you are used to go for it. Once you have a style of your own, then you can get a rod to match it.
I have a PPT Sidewinder and would like to cast it in the up reel position but the first guide is to close to the reel. could I remove the guide on the butt or would that change the action of the rod? is there an extention that could be put on the buttso that the reel would be frther from the 1st ring?
I finally got round to answering your first Q on the Sidewinder. Don't use an extension, I have used this rod with a high reel and it perfiormed opkay. It is a ittle close but should pose no problems. If in the end you wanted to use a high reel all the time then maybe move the ring, but do not try and make an extension as there is not internal reinforcement.
I live in the NE of Scotland and cosequently fish a lot of rough. How would a Daiwa Moonraker 13ft (m) and a SL30SH cope with this. Or can you suggest any alternatives.
The Moonraker is a going to be too soft for serious rocking and using an SL30 I assume you are serious. Let me know what sort of budget you have and I will try and suggest a suitable combo.
I can't really overcome the kick back by the butt when I'm pulling in my reel hand. Pleass kindly advice me. I'm 1.69m tall & weighs 146lb. I'm using a HST...casting 125gm or 5oz.
There are many causes for this kick back as you call it. Without seeing you in action it impossible to call the root cause. However, if the rod is sound and does not overpower you, then look at : snatchy cast, lazy left arm, too much power too early, casting low hard and left. If the rod is okay then it has to be your casting I am afraid.
I'm enquiring for a surf cum tournament rod which is suitable for small built caster. Wonder do Terry of Zziplex make such a rod of fast recovery, stiff but slim, very light & it's able to cast 125 - 150 grams?
Suggest Primo/Primo Syncro. The Syncro has a more powerful but. Both are good with 125/150g. Talk to Terry at Zziplex for final choice.tel: 01797 366602.
I`ve received an Abu ambassador elite 13ft fishing rod for xmas. I prefer my reel at the bottom of the rod(an Abu 6500), casting pendulum style. I`m 20 years of age and but quite small and I can only cast about 150-170yds I just can`t seem to get any real distance. Is there anything I can do to improve my casting and what potential does my rod/reel combination have?
This is a pretty powerful rod you have here and you have to bend it to get a good distance with it. A low reel is best for a slow wind up type of cast rewuired to compress it. Slow down, get the lead to fly out during the compression so when you come to hit it for real the lead is out there and not too far behind ready to rip your arms off!
Where in Britain can I source the floating beads that you mentionrd in the pop up rig you described in the latest Sea Angler or will I have to go to the US ?
Talk to Steve Allmark at Channel Angling Deal on 01304 373104 -
I am fishing around Cumbria so need a rod and reel for all types of ground (if possible), I am 5ft 9 and 11 stone (wet through). I can cast in the region of 100 yards using the off the ground method but I would like to add a fair amount to that, with practice of course. I am left handed but fish right handed so I am prone to the odd cock up now and again so I would need a rod that is a bit forgiving.
The standard Primo is a good bet, or for something cheaper but very capable a Penn Extreme 13ft Match (rung for low reel) would work well.
I'm currently using a Daiwa Paul Kerry Supercast 3-5oz rod with a 7HT (untuned) but I'm not getting anywhere near the distance I want to achieve (135yds over grass with 4oz). Having watched your Mastercast video, the Zziplex range looks very impressive and the ZF250 looks great, but I would like your recommendation on a general purpose rod within the Zziplex range that would cast big distances with practice with off the ground and/or pendulum casting.
I think the latest 3500 will be the most suitable. It's the replacement for the 2500, that was in production for nearly 20 years so it has something of a pedigree without being a hernia pole.
I am looking to solve a problem wherebye I can take a rod with me that is compact and can sling in the car without the wife moaning. We often make trips to her relatives on the coast and I have the chance to do a little beach fishing when I'm there but she objects to all my tackle coming with me. I have already shrunk the tackle box, telescopic rod rest but the rod is the problem. Is there a good telescopic available for beach casting or preferbly one in three or more sections which I can purchase. I don't mind paying that bit more, if I can find one that will solve my problem. Please can you suggest one?
To be honest Paul, no, there are no 'good' telescopic rods for beach fishing in the traditional sense, ie 5oz to 6oz casting. There is little opportunity for retailers to sell telescopics here so we tend to have a few token models only. Your best bet is to look on the continent where three piece and telescopic rods are far more popular.
I was just poking around in the UKSF website and I noticed that last year you competed in the light-line challenge and won the 50 gm section and got second in the 75 gm section. Not bad for someone who does'nt compete seriously anymore!! What kind of gear were you using? do you still pendulum cast with these lighter weights? what line diameter did you use?
It's like riding a bike, you don't practice but can still do it, only good days are few and far between. I've just won the Texas State Championships with a new record cast off nearly 274yds, my best competitive cast for probably 10 years. Not bad for an ol'e fart with a heart bypass and knackered knees! Light line event - 0.25mm mono on a prototype rod of undisclosed manufacture around 12ft 10in long and 5500CT.
I would be most gratetful if you could possibly give me some information and advice.Firstly a few years ago my father and i both purchased Zziplex Powertex G.S.I rods having read a article in a magazine that you written having tested it.We were most impressed with the rods when they arrived.because i am only short (5`5 ) and average build i was wondering if this choice of rod was the correct choice.Also could you please tell me the casting weights of the rods and also the expected casting distance of the rod being used by a great caster like your good self.
A Powertex GSI will cast up to around 175g with bait, but ideally 150g/175g total for max performace. What could I do with one? I cast 264 yards with the original carbon/glass models, which personally I prefered.
Carp angling question for you. I believe Zziplex make carp rods but I can't seem to find anywhere that sells them. I'm looking for a rod that will fire a 5oz lead/"method feeder" 100yds plus. Will these do the job and if so where can I get them and what do they cost?
Certainly Zziplex are producing LDC carp rods now, ring them on 01797 366602 for stockist info
I'm fairly new into Pendulum Casting, but have been surf fishing (using the conventional-overhead-rare-back- cock-the-leg-and-let-fly cast) for almost 20 years. I've been struggling with the pendulum technique. I'm averaging about 200 ft on my casts, and can't tell iff there is any improvement. My equipment consists of a 15 foot (yes, 15) SILSTAR Graphite Composite SW-15S Heavy Action Rod with a Penn 850SS Spinning Reel loaded with 17 lb line. A purchased this rod a few years ago hoping that it would improve my performance. I also own a 13 ft surf rod that I use with the same reel. I haven't seen any noticeable improvement between the two rods. My question(s): Is my 15 ft rod too long to effectively get any more distance than what I'm doing? When I attempt the Pendulum cast, my 3-5 ounce weight starts to bounce from one side to the other as I beginning the initial swing. Is this my equipment or is it my technique? Any recommendations or assistance that you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
A 15ft long floppy rod is never going to pendulum cast, simply too much flex and not enough lead control. Not sure of your circumstances, drop a line on the board with more venue and tackle info and I will dig into the grey matter.
Interested in the Penn PPT 14ft. Can the reel be used in the high position on this rod? I would like to try this rod using 4oz lures for striped bass on the west coast of California. Would this rod be light enough to be used as a normal lure tosser? Have been using a Zziplex Quattra matche but the butt is too large for me to be comfortable for all day casting. The fish out here require an occasional 175yd plus cast to reach. Can the PPT be casted with an over the shoulder cast to any effect?
Trust me, you don't want a 14ft Tournament rod for lure fishing! If you really want a powerful rod go for the Sidewinder at 13ft 6in, still a lot of rod but the Tournament is a tournament rod not a lure rod.
I have been offered a Diawa Paul Kerry 13 wisker kevlar for sale as a potential starter rod for tournament casting . i can fine out nothing on this rod other than the owners word that is was a predecessor to the amorphous wisker series .are you familiar with this rod? any ideas?
The Whisker Kevlar was the model prior to the AWT so has been aound a long time. It was a pretty good rod but the fibres around the carbon run out on the tip were known to fracture making the tip soft and eventually break off. Look for signs of fatique around where the carbon cut runs out of the tip. good luck -
I currently use a Diawa Cats Whisker BTB 126 with 6500 Mag Elite, fishing Chesil mainly. I would like to buy a second rod, but, I would like to fish rougher ground such as NE coast and am considering a Diawa AWB 129 with Penn 525 mag. I am 5'10", 12 stones and casting approx 125 metres. Could you please comment on the choice of second set of kit and advise any alternatives you may feel appropriate.
The AWB would not be on my list of rods suitable for rough ground, its too soft in the tip and too stiff in the butt. The AWT would be a far better choice idf you are intent on another Daiwa.
Can the Penn PPT Sidewinder be casted OK with the reel in the high position? Would the first ring be far enough up from the reel? How much does this rod weigh?
Yes, although designed for a low reel the Sidewinder is okay with a high reel. It weighs around 30oz.
Would the 14ft Conoflex Zest be light enough for throwing 3 to 4 oz lures during a full days fishing? Understand this rod has a full thru action and a slim diameter and can be casted with an over the shoulder style. Looking for a good distance rod to reach out longer distances to the fish.
Not used or seen this one, but I certainly wouldn't want to cast a lure all day on a 14ft rods. Isn't this the rod Barry Painter did hid big cast with? Not sure what you had in mind for lure fishing, but from what I know it's mostly shorter more conventional rods due to the cast retrieve rate over a long period.
Great site and nice videos. I use the pendulum cast here in Corpus Christi, TX when fishing in the surf. I have some friends who fish with me on occasion that could do unitech or OTG casts with some instruction. It sure would save me from casting everyone's line when we go down the beach! My question is "Can you use the spider type breakaway leads doing an OTG cast or will it pull the wire out of position as you drag it through the sand?" The only way I can do it is to set the weight on top of something for it to rest on. If I don't the legs break free.
Yes, it can be a problem, which is why I started calling a very stunted pendulum the Aerialised groundcast. Difficult to explain, but I will show you if you are at Jerrys casting retreat in March or at the Corpus Open on march 18/19. As a short term solution tey getting hold of a 2ft length of plastic rainwater guttering Laid on the beach it wil solve all your prioblems casting OTG with wired sinkers. Just put your lead is obne end and use it as a launch pad. Sounds too simple I know, but it works!
I have a Zziplex Primo Synchro and using an ABU 6500 Mag. Elite in low position and using a 150 gram weight I am casting 600-625 0n the field. I was wondering with this same settup in your hands could you estimate what your distance in feet would be on the field.Just curious of the distance this setup is capable of doing. I hear this rod is good for great distance but how far in feet is good distance
Not and easy question to answer, but I reckon on current form I could probably throw around 240 to 250yds, say 720 to 750ft on a reasonable day. BUT, these days I dont practice and only go to tournaments to meet people and have a good time. Winning is not on the agenda anymore. Been there, done it, retired hurt and come back to do it all over again. I now get my kicks passing on what it took me 25 years to learn.
Dear Neil, I have purchased a Century Vectra Grand Prix.I have been informed by a prominent tackle dealer that it is a superb OTG rod.After trying it out down the field i was delighted to find i could cast over 200yards and with a bit more time and practice hope to cast further.But now to my question,i am quite a competant pendulum caster but not with this rod.I have been a shore fisherman for many years but do not compete.I weigh in at over 14st and a athletic build and can compress any rod put in my hands but why cant i pendulum this rod very well,i can hit very respectable distances with many other rods,or is the vectra GP strictly a groundcaster.Or mayby its just my technique.I am using 6oz and a mag elite.I look forward to hearing from you soon.
Quite simply, its probably too stiff for your style. Grand Prix is as in casting Grand Prix, this is a full blown tournament rod. Without a smooth progressive style you will have problems. However, if you can cast off the ground then you should be able to pendulum with it, just slow down and try to recreate the smoothness of your off ground cast into a pendulum.
I've been having problems with my shock leader knot catching in the guides, with the odd spectacular bust off/foof up resulting! Initially I thought it was the knot (I use a cone-shaped knot, figure eight on the fat line thin line threaded thru with uni knot tied down the thick line-no idea what its called and coat knot with loon knot glue). However a more experienced caster had a few shots with my gear and was'nt having a problem so I guess have technique problems. Gear is a low mount 12 ft rod/mag elite, 7HT or Slosh20 reel(s) casting 2-31/2 oz weight forward jigs 0.35mm running line 0.47mm shockie. Casting style is just an over head swing due to cramped conditions (fishing shoulder to shoulder). If I'm going for max distance I preload rod with backswing, but it happens back
swing or not. What am I doing wrong?? Also one or two guy's here have put a trigger grip reel seat on their low mount rods, are these a good idea/any advantage?
A 12ft rod meant for a high reel but used low may be shy a ring. Also too much shock leader can and does cause this type of problem. The knot is probably not ideal, the smaller the better but of course it has to be strong. I suspect your problem is caused by a combination of all these things coupled to a style that has a bit of a hiccup in the flow.
Check out the reel to butt ring distance, try ten turns of leader on the spool when ready to cast and smooth out the cast as best you can.
I've got used to a down-the-butt reel position, but don't like reducers. They fall out at the wrong time. I note from pictures in the Sea Angler that UK casters often have the reel about 12 - 15 inches from the butt, not the 6 - 8 inches I've used. I tried 14 inches. I can wind in line much easier and I can hit the 'shorter' rod with more confidence. Am I on the right track for easy fishing? What are the theoretical implications for tournament casting? At my level, I suspect more confidence is better than more rod.
I use the reel 10in up for casting and 12in up for fishing. Reducers/extensions just get in the way or as you say fall out and are no longer necessary now we mostly using longer, lighter, smaller diameter butts.
What am I doing wrong? In the low reel position the line is dragging over my upper hands wrist and thumb area during the early stages of the cast. Is this normal or do I have to position the upper hand differently to avoid this line drag. Granted I feel like a cluts casting low reel presently and am finding it tough to get acustomed to this method of delivery. But, I am plugging away at it bit by bit. I look at your stills and video's on the pendulum cast everytime I have an issue and they have resolved many so far. My 3 biggest issues so far is the line drag issue, the lack of ability to load the rod as heavy as I can do high reeled, an a tendency to have to shorten my span of grip to cast low reeled. Are these common issues in getting used to a "low reel" position or have I missed the boat somewhere?
Unfortunately this line nicking the wrist is part of the territory! In brief, the wrist damage is a reminder you are doing something wrong! Too much leader - 10 turns is ample, jerky casting, uncoordinated punch pull, slicing, bowling etc are all causes of the line slapping your wrist. On a good day I have the odd nick, on a bad day I have a cut for every cast! You can always tell an old hand at low reel casting, he has more hair on his wrist where evolution has tried to give him some protection. As far as loading the rod is concerned, concentrate on the OTG to start with and get those arms away from the body. You need top obtain the javelin position before you start to puit the power in.
I'm an italian international, so have seen same UK angler fishing with semipendulum (or side by side I don't know the name).What is the advantage to use this type of cast respect to the pendulum? Another question how many yards a good pendulum (fishing style, no bait, on field) can give? And a semipendulum? Excuse me for my bad english and thanks lots.
The semi or fishing pendulum is more suited to some beach conditions - where there are people or obstructions - than a full pendulum style. I the right hands this style will clear 200m with a plain lead. With grip leads it can be difficult to cast off the ground so I developed what I call the aerialised ground cast, which is a ground cast with the lead a metre or so off the ground. I have done a series of article on it in Sea Angler magazine of which I am technical editor. Have a look at the casting animations on this site.
Have you ever cast a 6/0 or 4/0's? Well im just asking do you have any idea on a certain cast for such a set up. I have a 13' ulua pole with a 4/0 and 6/0 Penn. I use 50lbs line in the 4/0 and, an 8 ounce lead, 80lbs in the 6/0 and, use 10 ounce up to14. I'm sure you fished down here before. I asked Mike Sakamoto if you know whos that, he gave some answers but just practice he says. I need techniques to learn off of, do you recomend the otg or pendulum? I can get only a fair hundred or so yards. oh im only 16 years old, and i cant find many other ulua fishermen, thers alot but i cant get around no car.I need your help.P.S. does your techniques work for heavy lead?
Regrettably I have no experience with the big reels. I have cast 2 x 150g weight tied together for demonstration, but no serious big reel stuff. I would suggest off the ground would be preferable, the swing on the rod tip during a pendulum with a big lead is difficult to control, even with a really stiff tip there will be a lot of deflection. Basically you need to build up the power progressively so you load the rod rather than just bending it. A bent rod is not necessarily a compressed rod. I now have a 555GS Mag and will be seeing how it performs.
After casting 161yds and then 167yds with a 14oz lead with a zippy premo ft and .35 line is there any way i can inprove my ground-casting!
I would like to think you have fingers like mine that get mixed up on the keyboard. Please confirm what weight it is you are casting with the Primo.
Having seen your video. I've a problem. When I'm in the process of sending the lead away by punch&pull, the bottom arm got kick back by the rod
which in my case with bottom reel. No matter how I try pulling it, it juz kick my arm off. Please advice
Sounds like a lazy left arm to me. Get your arms away from your body so you have a clear and equal punch pull at the end. If the left arm is too low and close to your body you will have a big punch and not much pull which equals kickback.
Could you possibly give me some info on the Zziplex Federation Shore Rod. I have one and can pendulum cast around 180 - 200 yards with five ounces of lead and reel mounted down butt. Would this level of performance suggest, my style needs to improve or I would benefit from a more powerful rod. I would like to improve on distance so as to enter some casting events in England. I stay in Edinburgh and no events are ever staged up here (in Scotland) and am very keen to learn more and realise that the best way to do this,is to come and see it done first hand. The trouble is though, I fear the solution to the initial question may suggest a new rod but being only 20, I am on an incredibly tight budget. Do you think there may be any future in a casting event regularly staged in Scotland?
The Federation is a finer tipped version of the Pro-Am, which is a fishing version of the Bullet so it has a pretty good pedigree. The Fed is good for 240 plus with 150g, so I think you would be better off concentrating on technique and getting some oche time before shelling out hard cash on another rod. Oche bottle can be devastating to distance, so a little experience on the tournament court will be more use than a more, and quite possibly too powerful new rod. As you rightly say there are few, if any tournaments in Scotland so it is a case of coming south to compete. Both the Northeast and Northwest of England have casting federations and there is another around the Chester area. Keep an eye on the casting dates in Sea Angler, the only ones I have at present are for the North Wales Casting Club. Get some competition experience and when you feel the Fed is holding you back give me a shout and I will have a think about how you can progress your casting career.
While doing a pendulum cast on the field why does the weight sometimes bounce off the ground behind you just before the release? No matter if you are using high or low reel. I've seen this happen even to the best casters.
Oh yes, we hit the ground now and then too. I know no one who doesn't do it occasionally. It is caused by either hitting it too early or too late or letting the rod drift back or any one of another dozen or so reasons. Bacically it means your timing was out. In my heyday, I would take the dew off the grass on a good cast. The closer the lead is to the deck - within reason - the better, because the lead is then coming up as you power into it.
From watching your clip on pendulum casting it looks like when you swing the lead out and then swing it back at this point the rod tip stops just before 12o'clock and tugging at the tip causes it to bend. I usually bring the rod back a little past my shoulder then turn into the cast. Will stopping a little shorter load the rod more? I hope you understand what I'm tring to explain. It's tough to explain in writting.
Tough is not the word! Which is of course why we started the animated thing in the first place. This is my fishing pendulum style, where the rod stops a little earlier than 12 oclock. If you let the rod go right up to vertical it makes catching the lead just right more difficult. Try stopping the rod earlier to start with, then work on getting it so it suits you. No two people do it the same, copy a style that looks good for you then work on it until you knock it into shape for the way you want to cast.
At the end of your in-swing how do you get the tip, line & lead in one straight line? Do you need to bring up the rod fast?
No matter what the stage a cast is at you really do need to keep a tight line between the tip and lead. Rather than pull the lead back, which tends to be jerky, I simply lift the rod to bring the lead back towards me. But of course the rod has to be almost parallel with the ground for this to work. Once on its way back to keep the line tight and ensure the lead climbs you must stop the rod and hold it firmly. Let the tip drift back and rather than climbing the lead will simply fall out of the sky. In pic three of the pendulum sequence you can see I have starting lift the rod which already has a set in the tip as I keep firm contact wit the lead.
I am just starting into the long distance casting sport. Do you have a preference of a high reel position vs. low reel position? If using a low potision how far from the butt end of the rod is a good starting position?
When I started casting there were two options: short, 11ft 8in rod with high reel or a 14ft plus backcaster with a low reel. I tried both and did reasonably well, but lacked that extra bit needed to win. I then assembled a 14ft 6in rod comprising an 8ft 6in tip spigotted onto one of the first 6ft carbon butts. The object being longer rod equals greater tip speed equals more distance. With the reel mounted 30in up the rod it was a complete disaster! It was impossible to control a long, powerful and by todays standards, heavy rod, about 40oz with the reel high up. I thought about things and had the idea of mounting the reel low down, but needed to be able to reel in too. I cut 9in off the butt - ouch and rejoined it to the end with a lightweight spigot. With the rod in casting mode it was 13ft 9in long with the reel mounted 8in up. For retrieving the extension was replaced. First time out it felt pretty weird, but after just three cast I had bettered my previous best and continued to gain distance daily. A month later I went to a Sea Angler casting competition and beat the old record of 241yds with a cast of 257yds. And the lead came down through an oak tree! Also winning the first ever Sea Angler 250 badge in the process. Subsequently with lighter rods it is possible to cast a 13ft rod with a high reel, but much over this you really should be looking at a low reel. Longer rods with their more progressive action need winding up. A 14ft tip action rod with a stiff butt is a recipe for disaster high or low. With your Syncro you can use a high reel - I am 6ft 2in with standard arms and my reach from armpit to reel spool is 29in and I would add 1in for a little extra leverage, much more and you would be unable to get that left arm into your left breast to punch the thing away. For additional control a low reel is the answer. It just slows everything down and allow you more time to get the rod compressed so when you do give it some grief everything is pretty much locked up and you are hitting a solid lever rather than a stick of rhubarb. I place my low reel 10in up on a field rod and 11in to 12 on a fishing rod. This leaves enough butt to wind in with but does away with a detachable extension which get lost, dont fit, claggs up with sand etc etc. To find the ideal top grip tuck the reel in your armpit and stretch along the butt then grip the rod. Mark the upper and lower reach of your grip, move both up 1in and mark it. That is the ideal starting point, work with it for a while then try moving it half an inch either way until it feels right.
Tackle
I have the older black Ambassadeur 5000c, CT converted, that I match with a 13ft Zziplex Kevlon Bass. The spool isn't the smoothest runner and I was thinking of converting it to an Ultracast set up. The idea is to purchase the spindle and ultracast spool from ABU with the spacer from the 6500 rocket - or perhaps the bits from the new 5000 mag elite - as I want to retain the left hand spool control (for asthetic reasons only, you understand). What do you think?
No go Mike, it ain't gonna work. You cannot convert a conventional to an UltraCast without some major new part buying. Have a word with Pete Coogan on 0151 677 3609 for the final word but I do not believe it is possible or worth the effort trying.
I am currently using a Abu 6500C3CT Elite. I wish to change the original CT cage (reinforced) of my Elite to the normal CT cage that comes with a Sports Rocket. I understand that the original cage of the Elite is reinforced to be stronger but I still prefer the normal CT Sports Rocket type. Question. Does the normal CT cage fit the Elite's side plates, srews and spool?
I agree, the new reinforced cage is horrible! The old cage will fit, which makes a nonsense of the new cage because there are no more screws to aid rigidity despite the extra wide crossbars which simply add weight to what is supposed to be a lightweight reel.
Various models of ABU have the same basic gearing, and drag style: stacked drag, ratchet anti-reverse, and thick spacer from star drag to the top hat on the drag stack. Yet.... if one goes to schematics for these reels, one will find that on some models, the distorted washers are on top of the top hat of the drag, then the spacer, then the star drag. On other models, one will see the spacer on top of the top hat of the drag stack, then the distorted washers, then the star drag. No thin copper shims are involved anywhere in the reels. Why is this? The proper way to me would be the way of the schematic...which of course was the original question. ...why the difference in the schematics?
Looking into this one Ken, will be in touch as and when I can get an answer.
I have a Penn 525 mag T. My question has to do with routine bearing oiling. It appears that the 2 spool bearings and the one under the right end cap are the primary bearings to clean and oil. Is there a bearing under the brass piece on the left side. The brass piece appears to be in solid as I could not remove it.
Yes there is a bearing there, but frankly for fishing leave well alone. The two spindle bearings should not need re-lubing unless you have a problem with the whole thing running too fast. The two spool bearings with Red RF should be fine.
Having spend a couple of hours on balancing the spool of my 6500 CT Mag, I wondered: -'If I want to put on fresh mono, can I leave the first 50 metres of old line on the spool to maintain its balance ?' -'If so, how do I connect the new line to old one (I am afraid a knot will cause an unbalance)?
Unless I have a problem, I NEVER remove the last 30 yards or so of line from a spool once it is balanced. I ues a three turn grinner knot at each end and make sure the knot is to one side of the spool in a dip in the line.
I have a Penn surf master 470 fixed-spool reel,and on my last fishing trip managed to break the bail arm! Please tell me where i'll be able to purchase a new one.
Talk to Mick Simmons at Penn Service on 01386 552949.
I'm trying to relube the bearings in a new Penn 525 Mag (with Red Label Rocket Fuel) and am having trouble getting the "bushing" out of the sideplate on the left-hand side. If I pull/twist/wiggle any harder I think I'll bust the sideplate. Is there a trick to this? I got the "clicker gear" off of the spool but it seemed like there should have been an easier/less damaging way to do it. Any thoughts? Also, what's the best fluid to clear the old lube out of the bearings?
There is no real need to re lube the bearing under the spacer, but a pair of round nosed crimping pliers is all you need. To remove the plastic cog from the spool just sip a flat screwdriver under one edge and lift.
I have a penn GS 525 which was a present from my father. I very much like the reel as a replacement for a "large reel" for throwing heavy leads because the drag is so strong. However, there is a lot of internal resistance in the reel which appears to limit its ability to cast lighter leads. I use red rocket fuel in the bearings and I have removed one the centrifical brakes so that I have the option of using one. With all for brakes the only options available with the 525's newfangled centrifical braking system are 0, 2, or 4. I found 0 to be too little and 2 to be too much. That improved its casting but I can also tell that there is still alot friction/resistance where the shaft enters the gearing. I intend to try a polish to shaft to reduce the friction there. I have probably performed several hundred casts with the reel since it was given to me. I have two questions. 1) Is there anything else that can be done with the reel to improve its distance casting performance? 2) Are there any parts from the 525 mag that can be used in the GS 525 to improve its performance? (I don't want to try an covert the GS 525 to a 525 Mag -- I am just curious if there are improved bearings, bushings, etc that can be retrofitted on to the GS 525. Overall, I am happy with the reel's performance, I would like it to cast a little farther. Most of my casting is done Hatterast style or off the ground. I am also experimenting with the pendulum cast as well.
I think this one was covered on one of the message boards a while ago, but yes, polish the shaft where it goes through the pinion gear and remove any oil build up.
Does anyone make a better quality bearing to fit Mag10's &/or would any of the Newell "long cast" bearings fit the 10. Got to find a way to upgrade my son's 10's or I'll never get my old(17yrs.) Um 3's back.Would I be better off to get either new Mag525's or ABU Blue Yonders and let the boy have my UM3's?
Most bearing stockists would have an equivalent bearing in a higher spec, but to be brutally honest, get a 525 Mag. They are a whole new ballpark and a much more robust offering excellent performance.
Can you help me on tuning my Shimano Speed Master II Fs? I use them with 0.40 in for rought ground.
Have a look at Jaybees Northeast site, I did a tuning program there for the 2FS a few months ago.
Love my new 525T...are you recommending to put line on in any special way for this reel? Have been experimenting with backing off mag before casting, up to one and half turn is this a good idea?
I cast with mine one and a quarter turns off and it's safe as houses. The only special line lay is the initial 20 yards or so to balance the spool.
I would like to convert my Petzl Zoom headlamp to use a 6 volt lead acid battery. Can you recommend a suitable bulb to use as I cannot seem to get any locally.
Not easy to get, but you need a 6v bulbs, probably 0.5A halogen or a 5.95v Krypton. The problem is these bulbds in the main have shoulders rather than a screw fitting so you have to grind off the shoulder. Nightsearcher are the people top talk to, but suggest you don't mention you are doing your own conversion! Tel: 01243 370222
I'm from North Yorks, fishing mainly moderate to heavy ground & am looking for a new rod. Until last year I was quite happily using a standard Quattra until an altercation with a car door crushed the spigot. Since then I've been using, again quite happily, an ancient borrowed green Quattra but feel that I really should get something a bit newer. Previous rods ran through Cod 6, DC6s/c, Dream Machine, Pro Am (still got this & use it occasionally although doesn't really suit my style) Being keen on ZZiplex, how do the Primo range compare with the Quattras. A couple of my mates have recently got Synchros & are singing their praises. I should say that I don't necessarily subscribe to the "stiffer the better" principle for rods for rock work. Casting style is probably best defined as an "extended layback", getting I suppose around 120yds with bait/ 25lb line/ 7000reel on a good day(used to get around 190-200yds over grass with 6500 when I last tried several years ago) As an alternative, how would one of the PPT Sidewinders compare. At the price & inclusive of the 525Mag it's an option that I feel I've got to consider.
The Primo Syncro is indeed a good rod for the type of fishing you describe. On the Penn front, I have used the Sidewinder in three matches over Christmas, all on clean ground, but from different casting positions. One was up against a wall with people close by, one was a flat sandy beach where all out distance was needed and the other was a steep shingle beach were distance was also vital. I was very, very pleased with the way it performed from out and out blasting with a big swing to a stunted aerialised ground cast. It is a very user friendly rod and as you say a staggering deal with the reel thrown in. To sum up the Syncro is lighter, slimmer and has a slightly stiffer tip but will cast with most styles. Its really down to personal preference and how deep your pocket is!
Thanks for your detailed answer to my question about high vs. low position for the reel. My next question has to do with guide spacing for a low reel position. I am building a rod and was curious if when using a low reel if another guide should be placed on the rod to make up for the distance of the lower reel position. If using another guide should it be the next size larger.
A low reel rod wants to have around 55in to 60in between the reel and first ring. Whereas a high reel should be around 40in. I use a 25mm butt ring on a high reel and a 30mm on a low reel.
My Q is how do you rate the Shakespeare Beach Beast in comb. with the ABU 6500c3 CT RS on the low butt setup for the Pendulum cast. To me the rod tip looks a bit too stiff ???
The Beach Beast is a through action rod with a firm tip, ideal for smooth casting. It lacks a little oomph in the butt department but for average fishing distances should be fine with your 6500C3. Bite detection is not going to be brilliant for flounders at 50 yards, but set the tip in a tide run and it will be better than many overly soft tipped rods.
I now have four beachcasters Daiwa STXS130PM Penn Powergraph surf Abu Garcia 13ft beachpower and my first multiplier rod a hybrid Sundridge Epic Beach butt with unknown carbon tip. a hop fitted the butt to the tip for me. my question is when did they introduce the Epic beach? it is a Kevlar carbon butt and amazing.why did they stop making it and when did it come out. I emailed sundridge and they coundnt help !!! just curious as the rod is a very good lightweight thing 500 grams etc easy to carry all day etc.
Im sorry Malcolm, I have no idea what the Sundridge Epic was like or when it was introduced/discontinued. Sundridge import batches of rods and once they are gone I am afraid they are gone for good.
I have two questions: 1) What is the diameter of the spool-spindle of the 525 mag? 2) When I look at the reelschematics of the 525 mag, I can not find a ballbearing that supports the spoolspindle at the left hand side. I can only find four BB's (20A; 2x 55; 55A) and one anti-reverse bearing (98B), The adverts say the reel has 5 BB's and one anti-reverse bearing. So where can I find the 5th BB?
1) The main shaft on the 525 Mag is 0.1870in diameter to mate up with the 0.1875mm id bearings. 2) There are two inboard bearings in the spool, one at each end of the spindle, one supporting the pinion gear another under the main gear plus the anti-reverse needle roller. That makes a total of six ball and one needle roller bearings. The one you cannot find is under the brass spacer in the left hand end plate and the pinion support was added after the schematics where done.
Is there any advantage/disadvantage when using a 13 foot rod over a 12 foot rod with a high reel - I'm a learner who wants to progress (120 yards off ground) - I fish broken ground or shallow surf beaches and am thinking of a diawa supercast X PM 12 or 13 - I still want a fishing rod with 'feel' - have tried a friends Zziplex primo and find it too stiff - any ideas?
A 13 footer is always going to be easier to cast because everything happens slower. When I originally tested the Supercast I thought it was an excellent rod, the 12ft was good but not as smooth as the 13. However, later samples of this rod have been shown to me and they are not the same rod as the one I tested. It is now significantly softer than the original and in my opinion not as good, plus it is too soft in the tip. It may well suit you, but in my opinion it is too soft in the tip section for groundcasting. If the Primo is too stiff, have a look at the new Zziplex 3500, I think you will get on much better with it than the Supercast. By the by, I think it is 12ft 8in, okay for high or low reel.
I am looking to buy a new rod, but with the hundreds that are on offer, I havent got a clue what to buy. I currently own a Zziplex 2500ptx, but have now grown out of it and so Im looking for something stiffer. I will be using it for long range match fishing, clean and mixed ground, using a pendulum style casting. Price up to 250. I tried a friends Daiwa AWB129pm, but found it a bit soft in the tip. I also tried a tip tornado sport, but that was a little too stiff. I was thinking about a Conoflex nemesis standard, or one of the Zziplex zero series, what do you think.
The F Zero is a good and well proven match rod, an ideal step up from the 2500PTX. The other route if you fish rough ground more than occasionally is the Primo in standard form or the Syncro. Neither offer the same bite detection close in or with no tide as the F Zero but they are easier to cast and as long there is a tide running offer excellent bite detection. Or, for 250 you can get a Sidewinder AND a 525 Mag. I have been using this combo to fish three matches since Christmas and am most impressed with its performance.
Can you give me any information on the way that gemini tackle bonds its rigs together.
Only that they use a small plastic tube and special 'Superglue' and that it is shall we say an industrial process. Not really suitable for home use. It has been tried but needs considerable environmental control to be completely successfull.
I was given a nice new Penn Mag 525 for my birthday by my wife and must admit it really is the dogs dodars, spot on for all my casting and fishing needs. However i would like to highlight a problem - THE REEL FOOT. I have now fitted a graphite reel seat to my rod as the reel foot does not lie parrellel with the rod (as it would with a 'coaster friendly' Abu Mag). Neil please tell me that Penn will be altering this as this is the only thing putting me off buying another!! I feel that when tightening down such reel with coaster to a blank you are putting a lot of pressure over two small areas of the blank. If this has been done for a reason please let me know. Other than that i feel that this is the best beach fishing reel on the market today.
I have to say I have no problem with the 525 and coasters. A second layer of shrink tube may help give the foot something to embed itself into. The Penn rods I developed have two layers where the reel sits and I have had no complaints about the foot shape. The mass markets these reels are aimed at, including the Abus etc use graphite screw winch fittings and a slightly raised foot gives the jaws something to tightrn up on. I did see a guy in the USA who saying he bent his reel feet with a pair of pliers, but would not recommend it! Hope this helps explain things.
What is your opinion of the Penn Mag 970 and 980 models? Any special tips for the use and tuning of these reels?
The 970 and 980 are pretty big reels and never really caught on in the UK. Although I did once cast with one it was a long time ago but unfortunately I have never taken one to bits or tuned one. I will try and find out if anyone I know has and will post a message on the board if I can get hold of any information.
My new Zziplex Syncro is on its way. What weight class should I use when casting for distance? Little information is available here in the USA on the Zziplex line. Would it work well in the new 125gram class matched with a PENN 525 T Mag?
The standard 13ft 2in Syncro is fine for 125g, 150g and at a push 175g. Ideal weight has to be either 150g or 125g depending on the caster. The beauty of the Syncro is that the all carbon tip is great for the heavier leads AND you get much better feel with the lighter leads. Cast the light lead with a soft tip and you tend to lose the lead on the swing. The 525 Mag T will be fine with any of the leads, just dont overload it with the lighter lines, namely 0.28mm mono.
Is the MKV the choice for the millenium? or is there a new model on the horizon! Also when are Penn going to improve the quality of the rings on some of the models especially the tip ring as I broke another one taking it out of the bag. Please advise, do I cut off the old ring or is it hot melt glue time?
Improved quality rings in hand for INXS and Extreme beach rods in 2000. PPT are already Fuji as are INXS and Extreme downtide boat rods. Tip ring is not hot melted on and as such you are best advised to cut it off.
We use 12-13 ft carp blanks 3-31/2 lb TC (low mount set up) for lure tossing chasing quinatt salmon (I'm from NZ). I hear distance carp fishing is really taking off in the UK. Favoured rods here are tricast, harrison and (very recently) Simpson. What would be your pick for a carp rod 12-13 ft 3-31/2lb TC (or other blank) for tossing gear up to 3-4oz?
For long range carp type blanks there is only one worth considering, the Zziplex LDC carp. I have to say I am very unimpressed with most carp rods, but these things are built to cast 3oz and 4oz lures by someone who actually understands the requirements. Not easy to get in NZ I guess, but have a word with Dave Box at Veals Mail Order, he seems to get rods and stuff all around the world with fewer problems than most.
I'm casting with HST now. May I know the casting lead weight I should use? 125-170gm?
The Primo High Speed Tip will cast the entire UKSF weight range, from 125g to 175g. Its really a case of what weight suits you. But unless you are an accomplished caster and/or have a smooth style 175g may be a bit heavy. With its firm tip and fast action just wind em up and let em go!
I am torn between an Abu 7500C3 and a Penn 975 for a double duty, surf and boat, reel. I would really appreciate your comments on the relative merits of the reels for each use. I intend to use a different spool for each use, with the appropiate line on each.
The 7500C3 had a few problems when first introduced over here. Under load the spool would clack up and not move until the pressure was releaved. Not sure whether they changed things or it was a bum batch, but have not heard much about that particular problem lately. The 975 is a truly smooth reel, not quite the capacity of the 7500, but it depends what you need. Both have levelwinds and I hear the 975 is not as invasive on the thumb when casting as the 965. I think the 975 is smoother while the 7500 has the extra capacity. Personally I would have the 975
Do you prefer the new co-polymer lines or the regular mono when casting on the field? I bought some Greased Weasel shock line and boy does it love to just stay all coiled up.
I tend to use a co-polymer mono these days for both main line and leader on field and beach. Nylon needs bedding in and stretching before going for it, whereas most co-polymers will take a big hit straight off the spool. IMHO Greased Weasel is the worst shockleader ever made. Its slippery, has the memory of an elephant, stretches like nothing else and has an alarming habit of snapping without any obvious reason. I KNOW its supposed to be the top selling leader in the UK but God knows why!
I would like to convert my Petzl Zoom headlamp to use a 6 volt lead acid battery. Can you recommend a suitable bulb to use as I cannot seem to get any locally.
Not easy to get, but you need a 6v bulb, probably 0.5A halogen or a 5.95v Krypton. The problem is these bulbs in the main have shoulders rather than a screw fitting so you have to grind off the shoulder. Nightsearcher are the people top talk to, but suggest you don't mention you are doing your own conversion! Tel: 01243 370222
Tuning
In some of the Q's I've read, I saw ref's to your Casting Videos. As curious as I'am on learning and shaping errors out of my own developed "pendulum technique" I wondered where those vid's are obtainable.In the Netherlands I haven't found any yet. How do I get hold of one ?
I am working on a reel tuning and casting video right now. The tuning part is done, but need better weather for outside work. The Mastercast video I made at Sea Angler. They have no copies left and and not planning on duping anymore - why I do not know!!! Will advise via the boards when new video available.
When doing the Pendulum cast my lead always seems to fly to the left
Too much power too early - SLOW DOWN.
When the reel hand got away from the body at the turn of the cast, do I've to turn fast enough for tip speed so as to further power off the lead with pull/punch? Will this whole thing permits easier carry over? Really nice to watch your snappy punch pull;)) I'm casting 125gm/0.28mm line with mag-elite on HST.
The whole cast should be fluid and progressive so when you are in the right position - facing the direction of cast and looking up - you make the punch/pull. The rod has to be compressed initially by body rotation leaving the arms till later so they have full movement to punch the lead away. Hit it too early and the rod will make you go over the top in a bowing action - not good!
I have adopted your style of letting the rod go to near horizontal on the outswing, then 'lifting' the rod quite vigorously to put a 'set' in the rod tip. Big improvement. If I get the right arm outstretched (and fractionally further up the butt) and leave it out as I turn, the cast is smooth. If I allow my right elbow to bend more as I come around I can punch-pull harder, but the cast is not so smooth - sinker wobble and reel surge! I'm not sure if I'm losing the 'set' in the rod tip or my timing is out - hitting too soon. Should I leave my right arm outstretched, or should I bend it? Hope all this makes sense - it's hard to know what's going on back there.
Suggest you get a friend to watch and say when you lose contact with the lead, 'cos that's what happening Mark. Can't really help much more, except the power has to be applied progressively or you know what happens.
Ive seen alot of pictures of you casting ,but i ve never seen any picture of your feet when you are casting .Where do you position your feet before casting in the virtual clock ? How do you move or no during the cast ?
I always thought I swivelled on the ball of my right foot, but during the making of 'Mastercast' John Wilson said I lifted my foot off the ground a little and slid it around during the turn. I have a set of pix in an old Sea Angler looking specifically at my feet, will try and come up with the issue date -
I am interested in the PPT rods you designed with Penn. Were these rods designed for fishing or tournament field in mind ? How far should multipliers be when casting up or down the butt ? Any tips or advice for anglers like me interested in joining surfcasting competitions ? (P.S. SFAS in Singapore is holding its 2nd annual competition later this year !)
The PPT tournament rods are just that, tournament rods, while the Sidewinder is a high performance fishing rod. Check out the specs on the Euro catalogue on this site. All three rods are designed for a low multiplier reel mounted 10in - 12in from the butt cap although the Sidewinder is okay with a high reel too. Good luck with your competition, let me have the date when it is set.
This is more of a comment, but you might be able to comment in return. I practise on the beach. I went to practise on a field and never felt comfortable. The 200m mark looked an awful long way off, and I wasn't slightly elevated as on my beach. When I turned around to do my swing, I felt uncomfortable - no longer sure of where I was in relation to the target without the line of the beach as my oche. My follow through indicated I was heaving my body into it. Accuracy, which is spot on on the the beach, was generally off. It doesn't take much to put me off my game.
Its really a case of getting your bearings from your casting position. Personally I am able to adapt to a given situation fairly easily. I give demos all over the place in locations from an old dock in Copenhagen to a field full of goffer holes in California. You just have to get on with it the best you can.
Can you tell me how much line I should have hanging when pendulum casting. I use a 13ft rod, reel 30 ins up the butt.
Start with the drop to around 7ft and work from there, but do not got below the reel. Remember, the shorter the drop the faster everything happens.
I started sea fishing last year with a cheap rod & fixed spool reel. Having decided to pursue the sport, I wanted to buy a good rod and reel and was advised by the tackle shop to purchase a PPT sidewinder and Mag 525 reel. I have not had any experience in casting a multiplier reel before and no instructions were supplied with the reel. Was it good advice for a novice to buy such a rod & reel combination and can you give me some basic guidelines on how to cast a multiplier reel & advise where I should position it on the rod butt.
Oh dear, the Sidewinder is a high performance rod not at all suited to an angler with little experience, especially one who had not used a multiplier. There are instructions on how to tune the reel but not how to use it. Let me know who the dealer was, but in the meantime ring the Sea Angler office and ask them for a casting instructor in your area.
A friend insists it is better to leave out ALL brake blocks for more distance. I'm not so sure and always understood that at least one block should be kept in place.
Reels are tuned with a combination of oil, brakes and line level. No blocks will require a very thick oil to control it or you can use blocks and thinner oil. No blocks and thin oil usually equals a crack off. Have a look at the reel tuning section, especially the Mag Elite section.
What is the frame of the Penn 525 T mags made of? Is it graphite or aluminium?
The frames of all the 525 and GS series are made from a graphite composite reinforced with two brass cross bars.
I've just received my Penn 975, and wondered if you know if Penn will have after market parts available such as gear sets (higher-lower), spare spools, etc.
I am not aware of any add ons for this series of International. However, I will be in the PA works in March and will try and find out for you then if not before.
How do I get the bearings out of the penn mag to flush them.
If they are tight, and they should be, remove all the bits on the spool, get the spindle and push it through the first bearing and position the end of the shaft on the inner ring of the far bearing and push it out. You can now push the long end through the first bearing and pull it out against the shoulder on the shaft.
Is your tuning advice sound for the beach or just for the field? I use a mag elite with one brake block and still regularly get nests, etc. Should I refit the second block? Also how exactly should I lay the line on the spool as this may be part of my problem.
The section on this site for tuning the Mag Elite is aimed at fishing in the main. However, I suspect you are not adjusting the magnets to suit your casting style. Try casting with one block, the magnets set on 8 and line level 2mm to 3mm below the spool lip.
I found your tuning tips for the mag elite really useful. Do you have any gems for tuning the Diawa 7 HT? Also I recently cleaned out my SLosh20. in addition to the two bearings that support the spool there is a nylon bush under the end cap beside the star drag. I have always wondered what the effect of replacing this with a bearing of the same dimensions would be, especially after reading that your penn 525 mag has 4 bearings in the spool drive train. Also the clicker cog on the SLosh is a heavyish stainless job held in place by a circlip and can be rwmoved. Since I only use mine for tossing light (up to 3 oz) lures. I was wondering what the effect of removing this (and thereby making the spool lighter) would be.
I am working on a tuning guide for the 7HT and will post it under tuning tips soon. In the meantime, Yellow RF in both bearings and lots of end float are the usual route. Brake wise it depends on what you are casting. I would always use an Abu type fibre block for preference, so one or two small ones for long range work, one medium for bigger baits and for a real spool stopper two mediums. The spool and spindle in the SL20 is a combined unit so replacing the bush with a bearing will have little, if any effect. With just 3oz lures I would use red RF and play with the medium fibre blocks until you hit it right for a given application. The spool being over square will be affected more by line level and line diameter than the Abu 6500/Penn 525 square spool, so be aware.
I've got an abu 10000 CL J-speed & I wanted to use it for casting. I took off the level wind but the spool is still very tight. It has just one bearing in it is there any thing that can be done to make it cast better or should I just get a differant reel?
I think the 10,000 has more than one bearing, I will have to check. I have a 9000 here and will strip it down in a day or so and get back to you. Please understand we use the 10000 as a boat reel - although John Wilson uses one for Mahseer, a freshwater fish much prized in Indian rivers - we do not have to use such heavy reels from the beach. By the by, have a prototype mag 535GS and now I am playing with a 555, will let you know.
Have read a lot concening tuning of my 6500 Elite reel and have followed the advice given but I have one question to ask. How should I set up the mechanical brake (threaded cap on handle side of reel) and what is the relationship between this cap and the cap on the other side of the reel? As far as I can see both of these caps will tend to compress the spindle.
The use of the mechanical brake on modern Abus with UltraCast spools is a complete waste of time. The spindle has no relation to the spool in this sense as it revolves with bearings ON the shaft NOT with it. However, due to the design it does not compress the spindle and it runs up inside the brass spacer on the opposite side, but it does try and push the inner race laterally from the bearing. Not a good idea. The two end caps are there to centralise the spool with additional aid from shims if needed. If you are in really bad conditions and need more braking than the magnets and centrifugal brakes can offer but I have to ask why you would ever need more a LITTLE and tension will slow things down a bit. But this is a desperate measure and should be returned to slack after the cast unless you want to keep replacing the bearings. The original Abu with spool and spindle a single unit does offer a mechanical brake and the end cap has a recess covered by a large brass washer that will spring a little rather than simply compress the spindle. This mechanical brake was for use with what the reels where originally designed for, namely light lure fishing for game fish. It has no purpose in the new design and certainly not with a 6oz lead hanging on the end.
On the strength of a recent review in the sea angling press have just taken delivery of an extreme match 2 (Xmas pressie from the wife) from Tonys Tackle. The rod comes with a free 525 reel and I would like to know if you have any tuning tips for this reel.
I imagine this is the standard 525GS and not the mag. Clean the one large and one small bearings out with lighter petrol and re-lube with either Red - for slow - or Yellow - for fast - Rocket Fuel. Suggest you engage two of the centrifugal brakes as give it a hurl. Like all small, fast reels spool balance and line level matter, so spend some time winding the line on nicelyy and if it screanms whern you cast have a nother go with a different lay on the spool itself. Check out Tuning tips for the 525 Mag on the home page for more info on spool balance
Do you have any tips for altering the inside of an Abu Ultra Mag 3 or Sports Rocket to make it run faster or better for on the field casting? I hear so much about removing this part or that one and honing the I.D. of the pinion gear. I know the most important thing on the outside is SPOOL BALANCE which you stress very much. It's like not having your car tires balanced.
There are several ways to modify these reels, but mainly it involves adding of modifying magnetic brakes. Tune the reel first with oils, spool balance etc, then make sure the brakes can control it during the early part of the cast and be wound off once the lead is away. Go to someone who modifies them for a living, such as Pete Coogan in the Wirral of Keith Bartlett in Kent. Failing that, Dave Box at Veals Mail Order can get them done by one of these guys.
Home
NOW I AM SURE YOU GUYS WONT ASK ME IF I AM IN SOME KIND OF SYNDROM HA HA . THIS IS WHAT I AM WITH MY SPECIAL BUNCH OF FRIENDS LIKE CHUA AND KIT . I THINK AFTER I DIE AND GO TO HELL FOR THINKING TOO MUCH OF FISHING AND NEGLECTING MY FAMILY DUTY I WILL BE SEARCHING FOR SURE A NET LINE TO COMMUNICATE WITH THESE GUYS JUST TO DISCUSS FISHING TECHNIQUES .
I DONT KNW IF THE GUYS FRM THE WESTERN WORLD READ OUR FORUM BUT FOR SURE ITS TURNING OUT TO BE A VERY GOOD FORUM NOW A DAYS |
PRANAB (Seaexplorer)
New member
Username: Seaexplorer
Post Number: 178
Registered: 2-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 11:18 pm: | |
hey guys ,
Not at all i am more into fishing now a days .But i thought the area where i am charting now might not be of any interst to you guys . Because its too technical and more of physics . But in case u guys want to knw wht i am doing . Here it is .
---------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------
SVS, 4x4 SVS, Mag, Magtrax, Ultra Mag, Mag ForceV, IVCB, Flying Arm, and what's next?
Right:Shimano Bantam MagCast
Most advanced brake systems
Recent high-profile casting reels are equipped with "innovative" brake systems, but manufacturer doesn't tell us the details. This topic is about brake systems, from the scientific point of view, to help you understand the difference of those NEW brake systems.
Where do we need brakes?
Brakes of casting reels has two major objectives, 1) to set the maximum spool speed and the lure speed just after line released, and 2) to control the decelerate rate to prevent birds nest. As the maximum speed is higher, it will cast longer.
In the left chart below, blue line shows the lure/spool speed in casting in an easy situation. After it reaches to the maximum speed, it decelerate slowly. On the other hand, line in red shows the casting in difficult situation, like casting Rapara Shad-Rap against winds. We have the same initial lure/spool speed, but need more brake force thereafter. Adding to those two situations, pitching and flip casting needs a different brake profile. As it has slow spool speed, the less brake force, the better. To satisfy those requirements, the best brake system should 1. have little brake at slow spool speeds, 2. can be widely adjusted at middle spool speeds, and 3. has relatively less or saturating brake force at higher speed to maximize the initial spool speed. This is shown at right picture.
Brake systems
As you know, there are two major brake systems, centrifugal and magnet systems. Those two systems will continue to dominate the reel brake systems because they are easy to manufacture, and reliable. Followings are brief explanation of those two major brake systems.
Centrifugal system utilizes the friction of brake blocks pressed inside of brake ring. The brake force is proportional to the square of spool speed. Therefore, when the spool speed is fast, brake force is much larger than when spin speed is slow. You might have noticed that centrifugal reels cast well even with slow casting speed, like pitching, and you feel that lure flies at the end of casting. This is because of the basic exponential shape and ineffective brake range near speed 0. However, you might also have noticed that even if you try harder, casting range doesn't change much. This is because the exponential brake force at higher speed strongly regulate the initial speed. Therefore, centrifugal brake basically does not satisfy two requirements at the same time, saturation at high speed and enough middle speed brake. Also, conventional centrifugal system does not have adjustability.
SVS system (Shimano) lets you change the brake profile proportional to the number of brake blocks activated. 4x4 SVS (Scorpion 1000) is the system which allow you to choose a setting from outside by sliding brake ring attached to the dial. By choosing active/inactive of 3 outer blocks, you may choose a setting finely. Both system allows us to change the brake profile up and down, but does not satisfy the two requirements at high speed and middle speed at the same time. If you activate more brakes to have more brake force at middle speed, the casting distance will be proportionally reduced. And this is the reason that centrifugal brakes are not relatively effective when you cast a lure against winds.
Centrifugal brakes are less effective at slower than some spool speed. This character is described as the flat brake force at the beginning. Lines indicate the brake force, if 1, 2, 3 or 4 brake blocks are activated respectively.
Magnet brake system utilizes the electromagnetic force, which occurs between magnets and moving metal, in this case the spool. The brake force is directly proportional to the spool speed. The brake force is proportional to the distance between magnets and spool, and the magnet brake system was the first brake system to be able to adjust the force from outside, by changing the distance through dial. It has wider adjusting range at middle speed, but has too much brake at slow speed and not good for pitching. The brake at high speed is less than centrifugal system and allow higher initial speed.
The conventional magnet brake systems were composed of a brake panel with 3-5 small magnets sitting close to spool. Recent magnet systems use inductor rotors for smoother casting. Dial changes the magnetic force between two C shaped magnets.
Because of great middle-speed adjustability, and relatively high brake force at slow speed, magnet systems are quite good for difficult casting situations like casting against winds.
*Casting control, or mechanical brake works to change the initial brake point, and have almost stable brake force regardless of speed. The stable brake force will be added, and push up the profiles of centrifugal, or magnet brakes upwards. The brake force is relatively smaller than other system at high-middle speed range, but effective at close to speed 0 where other systems don't conduct enough brake force. In skipping, lure decelerates brutally after it hits water. Casting control is the only effective brake at the situation. Tight up the cap.
Above is the cast control cap of Conquest 100. It clicks finely, and will not loose while fishing.
@
What's available today?
In the category of centrifugal brakes, SVS and the 4x4 SVS of Shimano are advanced to have some extent of adjustability as explained above. However, those systems haven't addressed the challenge of modifying the brake profile shape itself. The development of new brake system has been the challenge to achieve the best brake profile shape.
After the first magnet brake has been invented, several interesting modifications have been invented related to the magnet brakes. One innovation to change the brake profile was ABU's Ultra Mag brake system equipped to Ultra Mag, XLT-FL, 1021FL around 1982-1986. It achieved the saturating brake at high speed by letting brake panel move away from spool at high brake situation. The panel holding magnets were suspended by springs, and as the panel receive the brake force from spool, it slides through a guide and moves away. The adjusting dial was to set the spring tension and change the brake-saturating point.(see left picture below) The system doesn't change the brake profile at especially slow speed, and it remained as the brake profile of magnet system at slow speed.
Combination of brake systems was another trial. ABU's S3000C/T3000C (Promax) were equipped with both centrifugal and magnet brakes. By changing magnet brake dial, we could control the magnet brake force. The system could have had the advantages of centrifugal system at slow speed, and the advantages of adjustability at middle speed of magnet system. However, the magnet also adds the brake profile at the higher speed, and reduces the casting distance. It turned out at high speed, brake is dominated by centrifugal profile, and at middle-slow speed it is dominated by magnet system. Even though S3000C had 0 magnet force on dial, its brake at slow speed was too much for pitching.
Mag ForceV (Daiwa) is the first and only brake system to have the profile proportional to the cube of spool speed. It is advanced magnet brake system combined with centrifugal position control system. Before it reaches at speed S1, the rotor does not move and the system conduct little brake. At the speed between S1 and S2, the inductor rotor held by centrifugal brackets moves in and out of magnets, depending on the speed of the spool. After it reaches at S2, the rotor does not move any more, and it has the magnet brake profile, directly proportional to the speed.
MagForceV system enabled us to change the centrifugal-like brake profiles finely and widely. Adding to this, because of its steeper profiles than centrifugal brakes, it cast very well with slow speed.
The red parts pushes out the gold inductor rotor between magnets. (shown in gray) (Green/Gold Millionaire CV-Z.)
What is innovational to the Mag ForceV is the fact that it addresses the requirement at slow speed by changing the brake profile. By inserting cubic profile in the middle of magnet brake profile, it maintains the advantage of magnet brake at high speed, and achieves the little brake at slow speed and relatively wide range of adjustability at the middle speed.
This is shown by the left picture. As you max the dial, you'll have more brake at middle, but brake at high speed is still on the line of magnet profile, not exponential. Even with max, the brake at slow speed is minimal and you may pitch easily. And, if you choose the min, it will conduct little brake at middle speed, which enable long flying casting.
Flying Arm (Ryobi) and IVCB (ABU Morrum SX) are advanced centrifugal brake system, which can be adjusted from outside with non-step, continuous basis. They utilize the centrifugal forces of leverage arms connected to the spool. (black arm in the picture below) The brake profiles are the same as conventional centrifugal brakes, and has too much brake at high speed, or if you have little brake at high speed you will have more birds nest in winds.
As spool rotates, the black leverage arms (brake block) will receive centrifugal force and pushes the blue brake panel attached to the reel body. By changing the position of brake panel, the pushing force will change. When the angle of brake shoe is 45 degree, it has the max brake, and at zero degree it has no brake. Because the brake shoes are small, the brake panel should be placed accurately to make the system effective. It requires very precise design and manufacturing technologies. And, it needs to be well designed otherwise it could happen that 7 out of 15 dial settings are useless that they have too little brake.
Conclusion?
From this study, I conclude Mag Force V system of Daiwa is the most advanced brake system currently available. What makes it the most advanced is the ability to address the requirements at all speed ranges, and relatively wide adjusting range at middle speed. The Flying Arm, IVCB comes to the second, a little a head of 4x4 SVS, because of continuous adjusting range. Shimano's SVS, Conventional magnet, Combination of magnet and centrifugal will come next. Although SVS is very refined system, troubles of changing setting is a large drawbacks. If you don't cast against wind, SVS will come close to 4x4 SVS though. This conclusion doesn't immediately mean that the reel with Mag Force V is the best fishing reel. Performances of casting reels are affected by more factors, like inertia of spool, smoothness of ball bearings, stiffness of frame, weight and etc. I admit Shimano's SVS casts very well in normal conditions, and I love it. Hope this help you understand the differences of brake systems and find the best performing reel to you.
Speed:
Slow:
Middle:
High:
Comment
Requirements
little brake
widely adjusting
less brake
@
Objectives of requirements
Pitching, flip casting
Prevent birds nest
Long cast
@
Centrifugal
Great
Bad (Non-adjustable)
Fair
@
SVS
Great
Fair*
Fair*
Middle and high doesn't co-exist
4x4 SVS
Great
Good*
Fair*
Middle and high doesn't co-exist
Conventional magnet
Bad
Great
Good
@
Ultra Mag
Bad
Great
Great*
The only system addresses high speed
Combo Centri+Mag
Bad
Great
Fair(-)*
Centrifugal adds more brake at high speed.
Mag Force V
Great
Good
Good
BEST
Flying Arm, IVCB
Great
Good*
Fair*
Middle and high doesn't co-exist
@
Read more interesting Tackle Topics
Conventional Reels FAQ
by Brian Mulholland
It's not a matter of better, it's a matter of different. You can do most surf fishing in the Northeast with either kind of reel, but there are times and places where one or the other has an advantage. It's easier to cast small payloads with spinning reels, especially into the wind. Minnow plugs in particular are easily cast on spinning tackle but are difficult to cast into the wind on conventional reels. Spinning reels have a faster rate of retrieve, which helps if you're casting at little bluefish, or if a fish runs straight at you. And if you fish down and dirty, if you wade aggressively and your reel is dunked on every trip, the toughest spinning reels are tougher than the toughest conventional reels. The guys at Montauk who swim out to rocks and fish with reels submerged do so with spinning reels.
Heavy payloads of five ounces and more are much easier to cast on conventional reels. Conventional reels handle heavy line better than spinning reels, are more sensitive and have more torque. The drag mechanism is usually better than the drag on a spinning reel. And, since most conventional reels have a clicker, they work better with fish finder rigs than spinning reels.
Why do I need heavy line? Or more torque?
It may not matter to you. If you're fishing an open sand beach with no obstructions, light line is fine and you can let a fish run. But if you fish around a jetty, or near the pilings of a bridge, you might need to haul a fish away from an obstruction. A big fish in an inlet can use the current to stay away from you long enough for the hook to become loose in the jaw. That's when the higher torque and heavy line ability of a conventional reel is so useful. Remember, the faster you land a fish, the less wear and tear the fish has suffered by the time it is released. Long fights on light line kill fish.
Why is it easier to cast a heavy load on a conventional reel?
The drag on a spinning reel carries the load of the cast. If the drag isn't set heavily enough to hold the load during a cast, the drag will slip. Your finger gets cut and energy is lost from the cast. That's why regulars using heavy spinning tackle tape their fingertips, to save themselves from line cuts. Mono can give you a nasty cut, and braided lines are worse because they're so much thinner. On a conventional reel, the thumb holds the spool. Most casters can hold a heavier load with their thumb than the reel drag can do. For this reason, and for the use of a clicker with fish finder rigs, a conventional reel is better than a spinning reel for fishing bait.
Why can't I just screw down the drag on the spinning reel?
Repeatedly tightening and loosening the drag puts a lot of wear on soft washers. Many spinning reels use Teflon washers that are very slick but just can't be made to hold a cast with a heavy payload. Sooner or later, you'll either forget to tighten down enough for a cast, and get cut; or you won't loosen the drag enough, and a good fish will break you off. Why invite a mistake?
Aren't conventional reels hard to use?
Modern reels are a lot easier to use than old ones. There is a learning curve, but it's pretty easy. Most current conventional reels have an anti-backlash mechanism, a brake, that slows the spool as it turns over the course of a cast. This will save you a lot of grief, though you still have to use your reel hand thumb. Older reels, like the Penn Squidder, require more skill to use. There are a few modern reels without a brake, and we'll get to those.
Why is a conventional reel more sensitive? What does that mean, anyway?
Line on a spinning reel runs through a right angle turn, across the bail, to get back to the spool. The line revolves around the center axis of the spool. You can't keep a finger on the line as it comes in. Any weight or impact or change of tension has to be felt through the reel. On a conventional, you can keep a finger on the line, if you want, and there is no revolving right angle turn to muffle sensation. You'll feel more of what goes on at the end of the line. The gain in sensitivity is most apparent when fishing live bait, and when fishing jigs. This difference in geometry is also part of the reason for that superior torque mentioned above.
There is an ergonomic advantage to conventional reels. Put a spinner and a surf conventional of the same line capacity side by side. The spinner will be bigger. The conventional will fit with less stretch into your hands. This is a subtle thing, but it's real, and most anglers who fish with both kinds of tackle would probably agree. It's one of those things that grows on you with practice; the more you fish, the more you feel it.
What about the level wind? Do I need one? Does it make my cast short?
It depends on what you're doing. The level wind makes a lot of sense for fishing with lures. Without a level wind, you must spread line back and forth on the spool with your thumb. If you don't have to do that, you'll notice more about the water in front of you. The level wind saves you work. Anglers who fish live bait, or use very heavy mono, or who absolutely have to get that last yard of distance on a long cast, may prefer an open faced reel without a level wind. It's easier to get a really strong grip on the spool without a level wind in the way, so open faced reels are the tool of choice for maximum distance casting. I'd guess that 90% of all conventional surfcasting is best done with a level wind reel. They are certainly easier to use, so they ought to be preferred if you're a beginner. The loss of distance in casting is small, and the gain in convenience is substantial. It's only when the absolute maximum in distance is necessary that an open faced reel has a substantial advantage, and this is not often the case in the Northeastern U.S.
Is this just your opinion, or does everybody agree?
Of course it's my opinion. What else could it possibly be?
Don't be cranky, I'm new at this. What's the best level wind reel?
Reasonable anglers may disagree. Reels that are currently popular include the Abu 6500, 7000 and 7500; the Penn 965 and 975; the Calcutta 400 and 700. All these reels have good points and weak points. The Abu 6500 CS Mag is the standard by which casting excellence is measured. The drag is mediocre and the reel needs to be broken down for cleaning under regular use. Some anglers wish it held more line. The 7000 and 7500 reels are bigger, and arguably a better choice for bait fishing. They also like to be disassembled for regular cleaning. The Penn 975 is the most rugged of the bunch, has a much better drag than the 6500 and more line capacity, and doesn't seem to annoy anyone too much. Some anglers complain that the level wind crossbar on the smaller 965 gets in the way of the caster's thumb. The Calcutta 400 is very finely made, casts well and has an excellent drag. The tolerances to which it is made are so fine that it is easily jammed by sand. The finish is subject to corrosion, and the reel is mechanically more complex than the others. The graphite drag washers are fragile and easily damaged during disassembly and assembly. This makes it hard for the casual user to get inside for cleaning.
For detailed user reports, read backwards though the archived threads. There are posters who praise each reels mentioned. Other people swear that their reel was awful and they were happy to give it away.
What about the open faced conventionals? What are the choices?
The Abu and Calcutta reels are available without a levelwind. The Abu 6500 CT Mag and 7500 CT and Calcutta 400S have much the same strengths and weaknesses as the level wind versions. Magnetic brakes are the hot design trend of the moment, and are used in the Penn Mag GS 525 and Abu Mag 6500 reels. A Mag 7500 CT reel from Abu should appear soon.
The latest arrivals in the market are Daiwa's revised Sealine reels, the SL 20HV and SL 30 HV. The Daiwa reels have a good reputation with surfcasters in the South. They are said to cast well, and the drags are very good. The position of the gear box annoys some users, and West Coast boards show many complaints about dog failures and limited supplies of spare parts.
Mag GS reels from Penn in bigger sizes should come to market in 2001; I've been testing a prototype Mag GS 535. The GS reels have huge drags and gear trains, probably the biggest and strongest of all the reels listed. The brake on the non Mag versions of the GS reels cannot be reset without removing the sideplate.
There are also open faced conventional reels that have no brake and are totally dependent on the casters' thumb. The Newell 229 and 235 have many long time users, including myself. Current production reels are not as well made as the G reels of the recent past. The Penn Squidder is still available, but it's not as friendly as the other reels mentioned.
Are there any other reels made for conventional surfcasting?
This review is limited to reels that are either discussed at length on SOL or other boards, or which I've used myself for a few years. The Abu Morrum don't have many local users. The reel was initially introduced with SX model numbers, without the Morrum name, and then re-introduced to the market with M model numbers after some internal redesign. It's hard to tell from most posts whether the poster has an early SX or later Morrum reel. There are a few anglers surfcasting with ProGear reels, which are beautiful but which need lots of TLC to stay nice. Daiwa has several new Millionaire baitcasters on the market. At least one of the new Millionaires has a sideplate that screws directly into machined threads on the frame. Just a little bit of corrosion on those threads, and you'd have the devil's own time getting the reel open for cleaning and repair, so someone else can test that baby and report back. The Fin-Nor baitcasters are also new on the market.
All the reels made with highly machined aluminum frames, the Shimano Calcutta and Trinidad, Morrum, ProGear, Millionaire and Fin-Nor baitcasters have very fine mechanical tolerances. This makes them sensitive to sand ingestion. Corrosion will be more visible than on the Newell and Penn reels.
What reels have you actually used?
Newell G229, Penn GS 525 (not the Mag version) Penn GS 535 Mag prototype, Penn 980 Magforce and Calcutta 400. Right now the GS 525 is my main reel. The spool takes 300 yards of fifty pound test Whiplash. My dream surf fish is a tuna in the surf, and this reel has enough drag to use that Whiplash and give me a fighting chance.
Do you really need all that line and a huge drag?
Only to catch the fish of my dreams.
Any advice on casting, and on what to buy?
Tim can sell you a nice reel and rod, email him and ask. Support your teachers. The surf business doesn't offer a lot of profit, so large chain stores won't have anyone on staff who is a surfcaster, and they don't carry the best surf rods. Good advice and good tackle comes from small stores and Internet shops that are semi-specialized in surf fishing, or are owned by a surfcaster.
The easy way to successful conventional casting is to take it easy. Ninety percent of backlashes happen because the caster is trying too hard for that last yard of distance. Fill your reel with 15-20 lb. mono for your initial experience and go fishing.
Relax. Keep the first few casts short. Mono absorbs water and becomes more pliable as it does, and this makes it easier to use. Get the line used to the water and your thumb used to the line. Make a couple of short casts each time you change lure weights to retune your thumb; the casting process involves feedback. Thumb the reel to stop rotation just before splashdown. If a fluff starts to happen during the cast, apply a bit more thumb pressure and slow the reel. If it's still there, take your time and pick it out. Most small backlashes dissolve with a little work. Do not try to yank it free, you're more likely to bury the problem deeper into the spool. Braided line is harder to pick out of a mess, especially at night, and that's why you should start with mono.
Have fun!
I KNOW ITS QUITE BORING TO LOT OF YOU GUYS BUT THT IS WHAT I AM DOING NOW AND SAVING EVERY DAY 20 DIRHAMS TO GET A SYSTEM LIKE THIS .
I KNW MY BUDDY LIKE KEYUR SAYS I AM CRAZY SO DOES CHUA WITH WHOM I MEET ALMOST ON A DAY TO BASIS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ROD AND REEL MECHANISM .
CHUA SAYS SHALL WE PUT A ROD AND REEL MANUFACTURING FACTORY IN DUBAI HA HA . BUT YOU KNW WHAT WHEN THE FISH HAS GONE IN DEEP WATERS I THINK TO TALK ABOUT FISHING MAKES SENCE . IT MUCH BETTER THAN DRINKING OR CHASING RUSSIAN BABES HA HA . BOTH THESE HOBBIES BURNS POCKETS . TALKING ABOUT FISHIND WONT . IT ENRICHES YOUR FISHING KNOWLEDGE .
AND GUESS WHAT WHEN YOU HAVE THE LIKES OF CHUA AND KIT AT OUR DISPOSAL ADDED WITH OUR GURUJIS IMMENSE 20 YRS EXPERINCE WHY NOT .
AFTER ALL THESE GUYS ARE TOO GOOD AND THEY DONT CHARGE U TO FISHING KNOWLEDGE .
I AM SURE IF THEY WERE BORN IN USA THEY WOULD HV DONE THAT FOR SURE .
HAPPYING FISHING DREAMS |
Fishpals (Fishpals)
New member
Username: Fishpals
Post Number: 22
Registered: 9-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 9:20 pm: | |
MIA !!!
Missing in Action ! |
Keyur Athaide (Keyur)
New member
Username: Keyur
Post Number: 78
Registered: 4-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 8:58 am: | |
Hey Jess are you referring to MI Syndrome??? or MIS Syndrome ?
MIS - Moral Insecurity Syndrome......LMAO ! |
RONALD DSOUZA (Ronald)
New member
Username: Ronald
Post Number: 18
Registered: 5-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 5:28 am: | |
Hi Everybody,
Yes Amir, it looks like holiday time for our fishing team.
Jess - Good joke. Now till he buys casting reel
he'll feel sick.
Bye,
Ronald |
amir (Am912)
New member
Username: Am912
Post Number: 12
Registered: 5-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 4:06 am: | |
I guess, it relates to getting information on fishes and fishing |
Jess Montes (Jess)
New member
Username: Jess
Post Number: 9
Registered: 5-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 4:02 am: | |
Pranab is down with MIS syndrome. Can anyone guess what this syndrome is?? The first correct guess wins a Penn 950 SS from Pranab.
Tightlines, bent rods and no syndrome. |
amir (Am912)
New member
Username: Am912
Post Number: 11
Registered: 5-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2007 - 2:23 am: | |
It seems that every one is on a holiday. Sepcially Pranab.Two days and no post. It is very surprising not to see a post from you. |
amir (Am912)
New member
Username: Am912
Post Number: 10
Registered: 5-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2007 - 2:36 am: | |
Hi Guys,
Could not make it with you guys for the fishing trip as I do not have my driving license yet. Would join you guys once I have my own conveyance.
Rgds |
Memed (Memed)
New member
Username: Memed
Post Number: 8
Registered: 4-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2007 - 11:23 pm: | |
Dear Pranab
Thank you so much for yesterday's call and invitation.Sorry i couldnt come as i was at work till night t | |
